Gol Gappa (Delhi Street Snack)

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I love this post from Sanjana who shares a love of fine eating and India. What a lovely thought, to be able to recreate Pani Puri!

The Aalasi Chef's avatarThe Alasi Chef

Happy Belated Father’s Day and a Happy Birthday (10/9) to my DH Sudhir. This post is dedicated to him. He’s a bit shy so asked not to reveal too much about him so I will try to keep it short and simple.

Let me start with a little bit about my DH. He is a typical Delhite..you know with his crude sense of humour and very loud vocals. Thankfully he doesn’t dress like one especially in winter. What I mean to say is that Delhi happens to have a a very unique winter look. Everywhere you turn you see men and I mean lots of men, young and old wearing sleeveless jumpers. They are seen in all different colors and fabrics worn over kurta pyjamas, business shirts, t-shirts, tailored pants and jeans. My favourite ensemble happens to be the chequered/stripey shirt under a sleeveless shimmery acrylic jumper..saksyyy!

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Mishri Lal Hotel, Jodhpur – great fun for Makhaniya Lassi and Mawa Kachori

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Another absolutely essential snack stop spot in Jodphur is the Mishri Lal Hotel, easy to find at the southern gate entrance of Sardar Market (with the clock tower in the middle).

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It is immensely popular with locals, particularly for it’s rich delicious  Makaniya lassi (about 50 cents) made from saffron, yogurt and whipped butter cream, but equally friendly and helpful to tourists.

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It is also a good spot to try another famous Jodhpur snack Mawa Kachori as well as Pede and Rabdi (a dessert made from milk curds, cardamon and sugar that reminded me of cheesecake).

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Menu                                                                                       Mawa Kachori – whole

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Mawa Kachori – stuffed with crushed nuts and cinnamon                      Pede

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Rabdi

 

Mehrangarh Fort – Jodphur, not just a great dining backdrop

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Magnificent Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur, an unbeatable backdrop for any meal is also worth a closer look.
It has an excellent museum and a good audio tour that’s included in the entrance price. ( A good to know that you need to take some form of ‘security’ for the audio guide i.e. Licence, passport, credit card or $US 40 or equivalent.)

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Raas Haveli Hotel – Jodhpur, Rajathan

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Set in a restored Haveli, Raas is stylish and classy, with a lovely view of the fort and offers good low season discounts (about $AUS 195 for a luxury room (not much more than the Garden room and worth the extra) if you book for three nights).

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Located near the centre of town (clock tower) it is also close to lots of less expensive good eating spots like Jhankar Choti Haveli, Priya Restaurant (for thalis) and Indique and snack options like the Omelette Shop, Mishrilal Hotel, Shahi Samosa and Janta Sweet Home.

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Staff are very professional and friendly and bring small fruit ‘slushies’ to guests at the pool side.

Raas has lovely garden and seating settings and the hotel shop has gorgeous textiles and  Love Travel guides.

The downside to know about is the early morning e.g. 4:45am call to prayer from the mosque next door.

But otherwise Raas is very lovely, though maybe a bit too lovely. It can feel a world away from the real Jodhpur outside the front gate.

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Breakfast in season time is buffet style and served in the Badari Cafe beside the pool.

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In the low season, breakfast is a la carte (both Western and Indian options) and may also be served in the Darikhana restaurant.

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The Duplex suite is on a higher floor than the Luxury room with two terraces/bathroom areas and a separate sitting area!

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Indique Restaurant – Jodhpur, Rajasthan

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Lal Maans & Naan

Indique is Lonely Planet’s top pick for eating in Jodhpur, and sunset here is just gorgeous. It does have an amazing view of both Fort Mehrangarh and back to Umaid Bhawan Palace. Even the street scenes below are fascinating.

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Set in a lovely 150 year old haveli offering heritage accommodation, it is close to the clock tower and easy to find.

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Dishes are a bit pricier than some other good spots, at around $AUS 7-8 for mains, but worth it for the setting, ambiance and style.

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It gets busy, so it pays to go early.

 

Good Eating around Sardar Market (the Clock Tower), Jodhpur

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Sardar market, around the clock tower in Jodhpur, is always buzzing with colour and activity.

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And there’ s plenty of good spots close buy for snacks and meals.

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Near the Nothern Gate – Omelette Shop, Mishrilal Hotel, Indique Restaurant

There’s also Spice Paradise, offering spices and cooking classes, up the road from the Northern Gate.

But it’s also pretty hectic in this part of town. I don’t think I’d ever been warned so much before about hard sell and scams as when I arrived in Jodhpur.

Outside the Southern Gate there is also Shahi Snacks, good for samosas and mirchi bada.

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Down the road from the Southern Gate is Priya Restaurant, good for Thali (fresher at lunchtime than dinner (in the rainy season particularly) I’m told and Janta Sweet Home, good for Mawa Kachori  and other sweet delicacies.

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Exploring street food and street scenes in Jodhpur, Rajasthan

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Exploring the narrow streets and lanes of the old parts of this ‘Blue City’ is fascinating and fun.

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Trying some of the street food specialities along the way is even better.

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Samosa, Kachori, Mirchi Pakora                    Makhaniya Lassi

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A virtual tour of Mumbai with Rick Stein

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Watch Rick Stein's India on ABC TV for great India itinerary ideas

The first half of BBC’s ‘Rick’s Stein’s India’ second episode is all about Mumbai and you can travel there yourself, without leaving home.

Visit Sassoon Dock fish market, eat Berry Pulao at Brittania & Co and meet Mr Kohinoor, go with Krishna from Reality Tours & Travel as he takes Rick to his favourite fish curry restaurant and on a tour of Dharavi slum, and play cricket on Oval Maiden.

Reality Tours & Travel – a great way to taste the best of Mumbai

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Reality Tours & Travel offers really great, good value tours around Mumbai that include the famous Mumbai street food, the dabbawallahs that deliver thousands of home cooked lunches to workers, without ever writing anything down, and a socially responsible, sensitive Dharavi slum tour.

It’s a best way to see and try lots of the best of Mumbai, in a short time. It’s hard to pick a favourite tour, but it might have been the Public Transport Tour – the dabbawallahs and Dadar flower market were hard to top.

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Reality Tours and Travel has the most amazing local guides to show you around and uses 80% of its profits to fund community development projects in Mumbai’s slums.

And Evelyn at the end of the phone and email, is lovely, endlessly patient, always available, and genuinely trying to organise you the best experience.

Mumbai’s Dharavi ‘slum’ – not what you expect!

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Dharavi Slum Mumbai is surprising!

Its easy to see the things that aren’t so great about Mumbai’s 2,000 slums. And there’s definitely plenty of opportunities to improve workplace safety, sanitation and water supplies. However, these isssues are not unique to slums, they are shared by communities and countries throughout the world.

But if instead you go looking for all the good things in Dharavi, you might well be very surprised. The community shows great creativity and innovation, collaboration and co-operation, to make the most of a small space and enable many people to migrate to Mumbai from villages for work and opportunities, and to live together on land they don’t own.

And once you understand a bit more about Mumbai’s ‘slums’, it can look very different from first impressions.

Mumbai is the worlds most densely populated city. Dharavi has 1.5 million people per square kilometre. In Mumbai, the government owns more than half the land. Dwellings built on government land are legally owned, and have some services like electricity and some water, but are technically called ‘slums’ . In Mumbai, you are more likely than not be living on government land, and as such, living in a ‘slum’. That’s why people working in a wide range of jobs, including  professional people, often live in slums in Mumbai and why Mumbai has so many slums.

But houses are very small, really just one tiny room, with maybe just washing facilities for women. 1,500 people share each toilet, that is only cleaned about four times a month.

However, in Dharavi there are schools, hospitals, markets, banks , a cinema ( of sorts) and plenty of creative industry. And no begging or signs of poverty.

Clearly there are many challenges, but also many things to admire.

It reminded me of a mixture of an Australian beach camping ground with minimal shared facilities, crowded with families in January, with tents packed tightly together and everyone working in with each other to make a small space and basic facilities work for everyone. But it also reminded me of the retirement communities that are popular, where people buy a house, but don’t own the land, live in community and start up all sorts of clubs and co-operative groups in their ‘closed’ community to make life better for everyone.

The best way to see Dharavi for yourself is with Reality Tours & Travel. Not only is this their signature tour that started them off, but 80% of their profits support a Dharavi based NGO ‘Reality Gives‘.

(Photos provided by Reality Tours & Travel, as photography is not permitted on tours, for community privacy).

 

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