Pho Quoc, Dickson – a new venue, but as good as ever!

A Canberra favourite for Vietnamese, Pho Quoc has outgrown it’s original home and moved around the corner to 5 Badham St, Dickson (where El Dorado Steakhouse used to be).

Some lovely huge lanterns from Hoi An, are a lovely feature and it’s good to have the extra tables for booking but it still gets quite noisy.

The spring roll entree ($5.90 for 4)…

….Birdsnest Seafood $19.90 (excellent) (or chicken $16.90)…

….Caramelised Pork and Prawns (very good) $18.90….

…and Rare Beef Pho $12.90…

are as good as ever.

Two dishes and two rice is perfect for three people to share with a serve of spring rolls.

The corkage has increased to $5 per bottle, but glasses of wine are good value, starting at $5 (bottles start at $20).

There is also still a 25% discount for Canberra Entertainment Book holders.

Thai Chiang Rai, now in the Woden Southern Cross Club

It was a sad day when Chong Co left the Woden Southern Cross Club. But very happily, Thai Chiang Rai (also in Kingston and Belconnen) is doing a great job of continuing the tradition of good Thai food….

……in a lovely setting…

….at a good price (particularly with the 10% CSCC members discount.)

Offering a good range of Express Lunches (and wine at $2.90!!)…

…like Green Curry with Chicken and rice $12.90, which is particularly good…

…Red Curry with Beef (not so tender, but good flavour) and rice $12.90…

…and plenty of other great sounding dishes and desserts..

it’s bound to be a favourite spot for lunch in Woden.

Travelling Solo as a woman in India

Travelling solo in India, particularly as a woman, in India can be tricky, but also very rewarding.

Meeting the challenges can lead to special experiences that you don’t have when travelling with others.

A few tips to make it work well.

Choose South India where there seems to a culture that is particularly helpful, relaxed, family friendly and conservative.

Carefully choose (e.g. trip advisor) home stays that:

– have helpful and friendly families hosting who are likely to be able to tell you how to get there, how to get around, and what to do and see.

– provide an evening meal with the family so you don’t need to go out to eat and have company.

– have good food, as there’s nothing like home cooking for really experiencing the best of South Indian food.

– cater for your needs e.g. wifi, A/C, balcony or private sit out, tea and coffee making facilities, close to the bus or train station.

– share your interests or at least are able to support them, e.g. Are you able to tag along to do the market shopping and watch in the kitchen? This could also be with the cook or home help. Great English is not essential as it’s mostly observation, especially if you’ve done some research first so have some knowledge of ingredients and techniques already.

Consider carrying a water boiler and cup to make your own tea and coffee if that’s important to you.

Dress conservatively covering shoulders and legs and wearing fairly loose fitting clothes. Consider buying some better quality traditional salwar suits (pants and tops) and getting them laundered properly to keep them looking good.

Use local bus and trains for short daytime trips and plan not to travel too far each time. Conductors keep good order and tend to look after women. Ticketing tends to place women next to women. Do take snacks ( biscuits and bananas are good) to share with fellow passengers, and some photos of family and your country to show fellow passengers as good conversation triggers when shared language is limited. Family, food, occupation, children and clothing style are always good topics of conversation that lend themselves to good non-verbal communication.

Travel as lightly as possible and leave shopping until the very end. A light bag is so much easier to manage on your own.

Adopt local style, eat what everyone else eats, at local meal times and try not to have to try to cater for special needs.

Go in good weather so that traditional dress or long clothes are more comfortable, you don’t need A/C so badly or a pool and you don’t get wet getting around. It’s easier then to dry washing too. Home stays usually have the same rates all year round, and public transport doesn’t vary so there’s not so much to be gained by going in low season.

Do your homework, find out as much as you can about how the buses and trains work, about the places you are visiting and what you plan to do when you’re there.

Get a local phone, it makes is so much easier.

Take lots of small gifts from your country to give as tokens of appreciation for kindnesses.

South East India Food Adventure – now with more tips!

Tamil Nadu

1. Chennai

Why Go?

Chennai is the gateway to Tamil Nadu and a major airport in Southern India

Where to Stay?

T. Nagar in Chennai is a good spot to stay as its near the Pondi Bazaar for shopping and some good spots to eat.

The Residency Towers in T.Nagar is well priced in the low season has a lovely decor and a pool for the hot weather.

(In good weather, Lotus Apartments close by could also be a cheaper option).

Another nice, well priced spot, with a pool that’s worth trying if you’d like to stay in Mylapore, (which is closer to sightseeing, and has plenty of good eateries) may be the Savera Hotel.

Where to Eat

Saravana Bhavan

In Pondy Bazaar try the Rangoli Restaurant Gujarati Thali.

There’s also a branch near the Kapalweeshwar Temple)

Murugan Idli Shop (Chennai is famous for idlis)

Chennai Must Dos ( all inexpensive activities)

Koyambedu Market, Chennai
Open daily from early morning, this huge wholesale market is a wonderful place to take photos and interact with stall sellers who love to have their photo taken.

Start in the first building which houses the flowers, but do also see the fruit and vegetable buildings, including the sea of bananas.
It costs around 250Rs to get there by auto rickshaw from Residency Towers Hotel.
It also gets quite hot, so best to head there straight after breakfast in the warm weather.

Mylapore must sees
Even if time is short, a quick trip to Mylapore ( about 500 Rs or less in an auto rickshaw for a round trip) is well worth it, to see and share local life.
Best done in the evening when the breeze from the ocean cools things down and the light is perfect for photos.
Sunday evening is especially good when St Thome Cathedral is alive with a huge outdoor mass….

….and Marina beach is busy with families enjoying a Sunday outing.

Kapaleeshwarer Temple also in Mylapore, is good in the evening too. ( It is closed for a long lunch 12:00-4:00pm).

The Storytrails Bazaar Trail or Peacock Trail is good if there’s a few of you to share the cost or if you can join a group.

2. Mahabalipuram (Mamallapuram)

About 1-1 ½ hours south of Chennai on the East Coast Road.

Why Go?

Visitors stop here to see the World Heritage listed temp les and rock carvings.

Where to Stay?

Grande Bay Resort and Spa

Where to Eat

Anthony’s Cafe

Seahore Garden Restaurant

Try the fish curry that Rick Stein declared was the best curry in all of India.

While this is not actually the best ever fish curry, it’s not bad, the view is great, and the Marsala prawns are excellent.

If you’d like cold beer, then do phone ahead ( or ask someone else to) to get it in the fridge.

What to Do

Exploring the world heritage Pallava Dynesty monuments in Mamallapuram is well worth doing. All seven sights are close together and can be seen in a morning.

These include the Five Rathas (250Rs per person entry fee, but this also gets you in to the Shore Temple),
Krishna’s Butterball, Mamallapuram Hill and Anjuna’s Penance
Engage an auto rickshaw driver for around 700Rs and a local guide for about 600Rs.
Recommendations include:
Sakthi, auto driver and fixer of all things – like cold beer and local SIM cards! He is often contacted by Grande Bay Resort to run guests into town.

Nirmal, a registered guide, has very good English and a great sense of keeping things brief and to the point, very important when it’s hot.

The government shop at the Shore Temple has some lovely textiles and camel bone boxes.

Well worth also doing is a 20 min, 800Rs ( for 1-2 people) auto rickshaw ride to the local rural town market in Thirskkalakundram, near Eagle Temple on the hill, close to Mamallapuram.
It’s colourful and fun.

Best to head there around 4:30pm to co-incide with the end of school and with the evening market and activities starting up.
Sakthi, the auto driver, can organise this for you.

3. Puducherry (Pondicherry)

Why Go?

A former French colony on the coast, where Indian and French foods and architecture blend to achieve some lovely street scenes, good shopping and creole cusine.

Where to Stay?

Les Hibiscus – in the good weather

Palais du Mahe in the hot weather ( discounted prices and a nice pool).

What to do?

Sita Flavours Cooking Class and Bike Tour

Stroll the Promenade in the evening

Browse the many Boutiques (Anokhi is a favourite)

Where to eat
There are plenty of good eating options in Pondicherry.

There’s several inexpensive options for South Indian foods, that are very popular with locals.
These are especially good for a lunchtime Thalis ( not available at dinner).
Surguru is the best, especially the Surguru Spot branch on Nehru Street. The Mission Street branch comes in second place.

For something a bit more upmarket that serves French and Western food and alcohol, but is more expensive…
…Carte Blanche at the Hotel L’Orient is great for Creole Cuisine ( the absolute best place for dinner)..

…Villa Shanti is a stylish respite from the heat..

…Satsanga can be handy ( not air conditioned)

…or try Hotel du Parc if you’re up at the north end of town (air conditioned, quiet, serves alcohol).

Pondy’s French heritage ensures that there’s plenty of good coffee, baguettes, cakes and pastries around town and they also have gourmet sandwiches and other western lunch items.

The best may be Baker Street for food and air conditioning..

Le Cafe for the view of the Promenade…

or Cafe de Artes for nice atmosphere and convenience…

…but there are plenty more attached to the more upmarket hotels.

4. Chettinad region

Why Go?

Stay in a beautifully restored mansion and enjoy authentic spicy Chettinad cuisine.

Where to Stay?

Kanadukathan

Visalam – a gorgeous art deco restored mansion with great style and a lovely pool and garden, with great low season discounts.

What to do?

All the great activities on offer especially the no cost daily cooking demonstrations ( and tastings), kolam making, sari and dhoti demonstrations…

….and the chargeable tour that visits the tile factory, the Visalam ancestral home and snack making.

Swim in the lovely pool.

Eat breakfast, lunch and dinner in three different places.

Karaikudi

Where to Stay?

The Bangala – Famous for it’s food – the set lunch or dinner is a Chettinadar wedding feast ( the hospitality and food here is truly amazing).

The heritage block rooms are lovely especially the upper room No. 4 that overlooks the garden…

…and No. 2 below it….

…as well as No. 3 honeymoon suite.

What to do?

Swim in the lovely pool.

Enjoy the meals.

Buy a signed copy of Mrs Meyyappan’s cookbook.

Learn to cook Chettinad cuisine.

Visit Mrs Meyyappan’s home, just gorgeous…

…and the antique shops..

… and the Monday and Thursday local markets.

Relax with the amazing high quality library thoughtfully catering to guests ( especially all the lovely coffee table books).

5. Madurai

Why Go?

One of the oldest cities in India, and home of the amaziing Meenakshi AmmanTemple

Where to Stay?

Heritage Madurai – great prices, gorgeous pool and a lovely garden setting.

What to do?

Enjoy the buzz around the Meenakshi Amman Temple and be sure to browse the Pudha Mandapa, the undercover heritage market at the East Gate that houses 200 tailors and endless stalls selling bling and gifts for those visiting the temple.

Foodies Day Out tour. an excellent introduction to foods in places you’d never find alone.

Where to eat?

Sree Sabrees for great coffee …

…and the signature Jigathanda at Famous Jigathanda.

Kumar Mess for a good thali lunch

Suyra for a roof top great value dinner with a view of the temple.

And ask Pandian from Foodies Day Out for more ideas.

6. Kodaikanal

Why Go?

A misty hill station in the Palni hills. Popular for it’s spectacular lookout points, waterfalls and very pretty lake. But only go if you have plenty of time, if not, just head straight to Ooty.

Where to Stay?

Villa Retreat

Great views over the valley and amazing food.

Walk around Kodai lake.

Don’t miss Coakers walk near Villa Retreat

Walk to Vattakanal ( there’s a good description of the route in Lonely Planet).

Stop at Atlafs Cafe for a coffee and snack

Shop at the Re Shop ( lovely things and a good cause), but don’t worry about buying chocolates in town.

Where to Eat?

Hotel Astoria Veg for a thali lunch

The Pastry Corner for icecream.

7. Ooty

Why Go?

Ooty another hill station of the Raj era in the Nilgiri Hills with great scenery.

Where to Stay?

Savoy Hotel

What to do?

Take the famous toy train on the Nilgiri Toy Train Railway line …

…to Coonoor, have a Parotti lunch meal at Hotel Sri Lakshmi

(absolutely delicious and only 40Rs) near the train station.

Visit the Variety Hall next door to Hotel Sri Lakshmi to appreciate Mr Ashok’s designer saris and perhaps get something, made then explore the Coonoor local market.

Get the frequent local bus back to Ooty ( bus stand is nearby).

Also visit Tulsi Mall up the hill for lovely Toda silver jewellery.

Take a tour of the tea estates and look out view points around Coonoor ( Dolphin’s Nose, Lamb’s Rock, and view of Catherine Falls) and visit the Highfields Tea Factory for a tour and tea tasting.

Perhaps have lunch at 180 McIver, Coonor – not cheap or exceptional, but great views.

Back in Oozy, visit the Botanical Gardens and see the Toda village at the top of the hill.

Visit the Main Bazaar Road in Ooty for silver jewellery.

Where to Eat?

Pakwan in the Main Street is the best spot in town but Lymond House is lovely, well priced and conveniently next to the Taj Savoy.

Lymond House (next to Taj Savoy)

Modern Stores on the way to the gardens has great chocolate and plenty of gourmet supplies.

Karnataka

8. Mysore

Where to Stay?

Royal Orchid Metropole

What to Do?

Royal Mysore Walking Tours

Mysore Palace ( make sure you’re in town Sunday evening when the Palace is lit!)

Devaraja Market is fun to explore.

Try the famous Mysore Pak fudge and Mysore Marsala Dosa.

Where to Eat?

Om Santhi at the Hotel Siddhartra for a thali for lunch.

The Green Hotel Restaurant for dinner

Malgudi Cafe at the Green Hotel for coffee and chocolate cake or sandwiches.

Dosa Point for the best Mysore Marsala Dosa and Nalpak for coffee both near the Royal Orchid.

9. Madikeri

Why Go?

Lonely Planet does not give Madikeri enough credit.
It’s a nice little town with a couple of good spots to eat, a lively Friday market and atmospheric fort.

Madikeri is the capital of Coorg, the ‘Scotland of India’, the home of the Kodava a tribal peoples and a favourite spot of British colonists. Famous for it’s coffee, spices, and Coorg cuisine that uses pork, interesting rice sides, a unique souring ingredient called kachampuli, and ingredients in curries like tender bamboo shoots, wild mango and wild mushroom it’s well worth a visit.

The centre of Coorg culture and cuisine, coffee plantations and hill stations.

Where to Stay?

Gowri Niwas – a lovely garden cottage with great hosts and fabulous home cooked Coorg food.

Serene Woods – lovely setting in a coffee estate with great views and excellent Coorg food, lovely staff ( but two nights is plenty as it’s fairly isolated).

What to do?

See the view from Raja’s Seat close to town.

Wander the fort in town.

Shop for spices at Coorg Greens.

Learn to tie a saree Coorg style that can be worn without a blouse for evening wear.

Where to Eat?

Raintree Resturant for great iced coffee and local black Bella coffee sweetened with jaggery ( divine), or lunch in a more upmarket setting.

Coorg Cuisinette for well priced excellent Coorg dishes with the locals.

(The Shatabdi train is a quick and easy 2 hour scenic ride to Bangalore from Mysore).

10. Bangalore

Where to Stay?

Casa Cottage ( Room 18 is the pick), a good spot but not in the very best location.

St Mark’s Inn or Hayz Boutique Hotel are better located, closer to St Mark’s Road.

In Bangalore location is everything as traffic is terrible and crossing roads no fun. St Mark’s Road is the best location, close to good restaurants and easy walking to Commercial Street area.

What to Do?

Shop around Commercial Street ( the side streets are cheaper.)

For saree bling go to…

For ready made stretchy saree blouses go to….

Get some tailoring done.

Don’t miss seeing the amazing Mysore Saree Udyog shop with floors of the most gorgeous materials.

And visit the nearby heritage Russell Markets. Go early to see the action as goods are unloaded.

City Markets ( Sunday they have extra street stalls set up).

Go early ( get there around 6:30am at least) to see the lovely flowers.

Bangalore Flower markets

Also see the Fort and Tippu’s Palace close by while you’re there and maybe Gandhi Bazaar that’s close.

Do go the the original Mavelli Tiffin Rooms which are not far from the City Markets.

Where to Eat?

Mavelli Tiffin Rooms – the original is great but there are handy outlets in St Mark’s Road and Commercial Street. Try the Rava Idli and the Special Thali.

Koshy’s Parade Cafe – lovely heritage ambiance, great for coffee, snacks, sandwiches and Raj era cuisine ( ask for the Mutton Pepper Fry, not on the menu).

Ebony for the roof top view but expensive so go for the Dhansak or Massaman Curry meals ( large so just one between two).

Church Street also has lots of good choices.

Why go to Tamil Nadu in July?

Why go in July?

It’s Mango season ( May to mid July, or longer).

Upgrades are more frequent.

You might have the pool or even the whole hotel to yourself.

People have lots of time to look after you well and help you.

It’s cold in Canberra.

Low season tariffs are great.

It’s hot, but not too hot, and the rain hasn’t started. Much of Tamil Nadu gets the North east monsoon which starts in mid September to October and lasts until December. But it is a good idea to try to stay where there’s a pool.

Hill stations are only about 20 degrees Celsius at this time, but the rain starts earlier in the hills, in July.

Even so it is intermittent and can often be lovely to watch from a balcony while sipping locally grown tea or coffee.

Washing dries easily ( except maybe in the hills), so you don’t need to take much luggage. Just wash and wear.

Tip: Avoid the Indian school holidays as it gets busier then.

Why go to to South India?

Why go to South India?

Because…

People are friendly and helpful – everyone wants to meet you, help you and feed you.

South Indian food is great! It really is! And inexpensive.

Every meal, snack and cup of chai or South Indian coffee is an event to be enjoyed and savoured.

A good thali lunch is only $3 and a good dinner with a beer only costs about $6-7.

You can eat well for $10 a day.

It’s relaxed and easy going.

There are such great places to stay.

Old-fashioned gracious hospitality comes naturally and guests are spoilt.

There’s lots to see and plenty of fun that’s inexpensive or free.

It’s warm!

It’s kind of nice to be called ‘madam’, or ‘madame’ in Pondicherry, for a while.

But…

Go looking for all the great and special things, not for things that may not be like home…

Expect people to want to help you, know what you want and ask for it clearly, but stay lovely, and be prepared that it may be ‘not possible’ or that you might need to ask a few more people…..

Expect the best of people but also stay safe and keep your belongings safe…use common sense and think ahead…

Try to get a local mobile/cell phone ( a basic Samsung with phone and text facilities costS $25 from Poorvika). However, security is tight. You need two passport photos, your passport, a local address ( try the hotel where you are staying) and a phone number that you can be reached on to verify your identity ( again try the hotel where you’re staying). It will take at least 24 hours to get a pre paid SIM organised and activated so is best done as soon as you arrive. If you can find someone to help you it makes it so much easier.

Sounds like a lot of trouble but it’s truly worth it. You can then use the many call taxis easily and cheaply. You can also check and confirm arrangements.

Petra Palace Lebanese Restaurant, Phillip – delicious food

Recently opened last year, Petra Palace is a relative new comer to Canberra world cuisine dining, but one well worth seeking out as the food is simply delicious!

Tucked away in Colbee Court Phillip, like many of Canberra’s suburban gems, it offers easy at the door parking and good value prices.

The decor is welcoming and attractive, with some cozy, colourful couches.

Great for groups who would like to share a few dishes, it can get a little noisy for the hard of hearing.

Some of the most delicious dishes include:

Hummus $10 (especially the Hummus Beirut with parsley and chilli) served with the most amazing Lebanese bread.

These are probably better picks than the (also nice) Baba Ganoush $10

Falafel (4 pieces) $10 with tahini sauce, pickles and tomatoes.

Lamb Fatteh $25, Chicken Fatteh $25 or Petra Fatteh $18 – casserole of marinated chicken/chargrilled eggplant, crispy Lebanese bread, spiced rice, garlic, mint, yogurt and tahini topped with pie nuts.

For variety you may want to add…

….a Fattoush Salad $15 cos lettuce, diced tomato, cucumber, capsicum, onion with a lemon and olive oil dressing topped with crispy Lebanese bread….

…or some kebabs $25 for 3 lamb, chicken or ground lamb and beef kebabs or $20 for vegetable kebabs, all served with rice/couscous/hot chips and a garnish of vegetables.

The Cheese Sambousek (4 pieces) $15 Handmade pastry filled with feta cheese is also very good.

For something sweet the Baklava is nicely portioned at $5 for two small pieces.

For a group of four people a lovely menu to share would be:

1x Hummus Beirut with Lebanese Bread $10

1x Falafel $10

1x Chicken Fatteh $25

1x Fattoush Salad $15

Total $60 ($15 per person)

Not BYO, but wine is available by the glass starting at $7.50 and bottles are reasonably priced at $28 -$35.

Canberra Entertainment Book Holders can also get two main meals for the price of one.

Timing a visit for the Belly dancing on Saturday nights would also be great fun.

Open for dinner Tuesday – Saturday 5-10pm

Tu Do Vietnamese Restaurant, O’Connor

Very popular with O’Connor locals, Tu Do is friendly and well priced.

Bowls of rare beef Pho $12 are generous and the beef is tender.

Fresh Rice Rolls (4 for $8) with Hoisin Sauce are also generous but also filled with a lot of rice noodles.

Plates of stir fried dishes for $13 (for vegetarian) up $18 (for seafood), offer a good opportunity to share a few options in a group.

Sate Lamb $16

Sate Beef $15

Peppercorn Beef $15

One dish with rice ($2.50 per person) can be shared between two people but there is enough for four people to share two dishes.

The Seafood Combination ($18) (seafood (plenty of prawns) and vegetables) looks especially worth trying.

BYO is offered and it is one for both lunch 10am to 3pm and dinner 5-10pm everyday except Mondays.

Not so great for groups as it can get quite noisy making conversation tricky.

Also not quite as good as Pho Quoc, it can however be a convenient and easy option.

Two for Joy, Kingston – plenty of variety for breakfast and lunch

Located in the popular Kingston area, Two for Joy can be a good option when some of the very popular spots are full on the weekend.

Offering both inside and outside seating, friendly efficient service, the great strength of Two for Joy is the large range of options on the menu.

There’s something simple like a generous serve of Raisin Toast $6….

…with good coffee…

…the regular offerings for breakfast…

….and lunch…

….and a changing list of specials.

The Spud Bar, Garema Place, City

The Spud Spot in Garema Place City, has plenty of potential for a quick casual lunch or dinner in the warmer weather when it’s nice to sit outside.

Offering large, very sharable serves of either white or sweet potato (or half and half) with a range of fresh and tasty toppings for $10-$13, it’s great value.

Choose between a suggested combination on the menu, or design your own from the hot and cold toppings available.

If you are wanting a lighter touch to your meal, choose more fresh ingredients and skip the hot options.

The vegetarian options also look very inviting.

Pulled Pork $12.90 – tender pulled pork with baby spinach, shredded cabbage, corn, peas and spring onions with light sour cream.

Half serves are also available ( at around $6.50 for one of the basic three options, with additional toppings for $1-$3) but these are limited and it’s better to share one with a friend if you can, or ask for a box and take some with you.