One of the highlights of Jaislamer, are the old havelis, just outside the fort wall.
Patwa-ki-Haveli is the best, and needs a good look inside. But Nathmal-ki-Haveli is also worth going in to.
Food Travel
Exploring the streets of the old city – Jaisalmer
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Exploring the old city of Jaisalmer is a real treat, both inside the fort wall and in the streets below. The Palace museum is not as good as the one in Jodhpur, but don’t miss the havelis, especially Patwa-ki-Haveli.
Hotel Garh – a gorgeous, great value spot to stay in Jaislamer Fort
StandardPerhaps the best place to stay in Jaisalmer’s fort wall is Hotel Garh.
This tall narrow home has been converted into a hotel full of charm, located around a courtyard at the top of a lane.
It’s roof top restaurant has spectacular views.
It shoulders up against other hotels (in fact, the brave can walk between roof tops). Hotel Rajmandir is right next door and Hotel Surja Guest House (good for an easy meal) the next hotel along.
The staff are kind, thoughtful, honest and sincere. Requests are happily and readily accommodated.
There’s no room safe, but belongings are secure. There’s also no room fridge, but complimentary chai, coffee and water are always available (and lovely to enjoy in the gorgeous window seats.)
Each of the seven rooms is beautifully decorated in a different colour. My favourite was the Sweet Purple room, that is huge, with a large bathroom and extra single bed.
But the Opium Room is also lovely…
And there’s the Green Room…
The Blue Room and Red Room…
…and the Scarlet Room
Hotel Garh is great value, at less than $AUS60 per night in low season, including a sumptuous breakfast of fruit, juice, eggs, masala chai/coffee, banana pancakes and Indian breakfast choices like Poha (flattened rice cooked with spices and vegetables).
Jaisalmer – a unique experience to stay in the fort wall
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Jaisalmer, in desert far west Rajasthan, is the ‘Golden City’ and perhaps my favourite place in India.
It is a unique experience to stay in the fort wall ….
…and watch the sun rise and set….
…and the rain roll in….
…and life below….
….from a roof top restaurant
…or a lovely window seat.
Good lunch spots between Jodphur and Jaisalmer
StandardThe best way to travel between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer is by road.
The road is good and the trip takes about 4 1/2 hours.
Along the way, there are two good spots to stop for a break, conveniently located about half way.
Samsara Resort and Camp (Lunch from 12:00-15:00) Mains about $AUS 8 each, Lassi $AUS3
Manvar Resort and Desert Camp (Mains about $AUS7, Lassi about $AUS2)
Kathi rolls about $AUS6
Manvar Resort also has a lovely gift and book shop and nice accommodation (it also offers a desert luxury camp 7km away).
Saffron Kulfi at Umaid Bhawan Palace – Jodhpur
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Umaid Bhawan Palace, just outside Jodhpur, is the current home of the royal family and very impressive.
It offers some very glamorous, but expensive, accommodation and dining…. but even if that’s not what you want, it’s well worth a visit.
While you aren’t able to go inside the residence or the hotel part of the property, for just $1, you can visit the lovely grounds and get a good feel of the art deco palace from the very good museum.
Don’t miss the delicious kesar (saffron) kulfi (ice-cream) near the entrance. It’s a lovely treat in the shade of the gardens.
There’s also a vintage car collection near the entrance, that adds to the heritage ambiance.
A good stop to combine with a visit to local villages and the Jaswant Thada Temple.
Breakfast when travelling – a great time to try Indian specialties
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Dal and Pakwan Baked yogurt, idli
Breakfast in India, when travelling, is a great opportunity to try a wide range of regional and national specialities. Often a buffet selection of a range of Indian dishes is offered so it’s easy to try a little of lots of things. If breakfast is a la carte, usually there are one of two Indian breakfast options included. And it’s even worth trying the same dish several times as each cook has their own style.
Marsala Dosa Baked yogurt and more
Pao Keema Dal Makarni and Pakwan
Dal Chakori Poha
Poha, Puri and Sambhal, Indian sweets Marsala Dosa
Chakori, Mirchi Pakora, Samosa Poha
Goan Pao bread Besan ka cheela
Medu Wada, Aloo Bonda ,Goan breads Vegetable Xacuti, Butter Pao , Aloo Pakoda, Upma, Poori bhaji, Sambhar and coconut chutney
Aloo Paratha
Jaswant Thada Temple and Rao Jodha Desert Park – Jodhpur
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Just 1km from Jodhpur city is the peaceful Jaswant Thada Temple and Rao Desert Park.
Great to include, along with Umaid Bhawan Palace in a village tour.
It’s a real treat to be the only one there, so arrive at 9am when it opens.
It’s also possible to organise free early morning guided walks in the park with a naturalist.
Call +91 951271000
Visit a Bishnoi family and enjoying a traditional village lunch – Jodhpur
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A great way to see rural Rajathani life is to take one of the many trips being offered, to the villages close to Jodhpur and have lunch with a local family.
Chai with a Bishnoi family, may well involve sharing amal, an opium preparation to welcome guests.
Watching lunch being prepared and then sharing it with a local family is lovely.
There’s also an opportunity to see and buy woven rugs, dhurries in the village of Salawas.
And it’s a sad account of the tragedy involving the death of 363 Bishnoi villagers who sacrificed themselves to protect their sacred Khejri trees at the memorial at Khejadali village.
Omelette Shop, Jodhpur – a must do
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The Omelette Shop is a must do stop for street food in Jodhpur. So popular, it goes through 1000-1500 eggs a day.
Not only is it incredibly great value, at less than $1 for what is really two omelette sandwiches, but this 30 year old family run business is a real treat to visit.
Easy to find at the entrance to Sardar Market (with the clock tower in the middle), surrounded by a tuk tuk stand, the marsala cheese omelettes are highly recommended.
Fine Eating 